Monday, May 15, 2017

Bridle and Bow Quiver

This post is for the awesomesauce, all.things.mounted.archery.leather.lady, Mary Anne of Knavish Designs.

Bridle for Mounted Archery




  • black leather, I imagine the bridle to be fairly stiff so the cutout doesn't get floppy
  • silver hardware
  • chicago screw to bit
  • buckle noseband
  • buckle at poll instead of side arrow looking things
  • silver paint used minimally but to make the cutout details stand out against his black hair
  • black matching reins with chicago screws at bit attach with buckle at wither - soft drape reins



  • corner of mouth to corner of mouth, over poll 46"
  • cheekbone edge to cheekbone edge, over poll 33.25"
  • nose band location with mouth closed 23.5"

    Wearing Bridle

    • bit ring edge to bit ring edge, over poll 39"
    • noseband inside measure, buckled 24"
    • bit ring width 3.125"  (70mm rings as listed per manufacturer)
    • 60" length reins, I knot them around 41.5" to attached to saddle via leather strap

    Bow Quiver



    • black leather
    • silver hardware
    • painted horse/arrow scroll work to coordinate with arrow quiver
    • 3 point harness to wear across back, comfortable in sports bra (photos coming)
    • must clear arrows in thigh arrow quiver, saddle cantle and horse's back (photos coming)
    • buckle attachments, no clips


    Photos are labeled with the location from the diagram as well as the measurement. Measurement listed as text is more accurate than what the measure tape shows depending on the angle I took photo.

    Bow arm width: 1.125" or 1 1/8".

    Measurements for the straps.

    Back Shot

    I think I would like the quiver to sit mid to lower back. This way the bow doesn't stick up WAY above my head and bounce. I definitely feel I have the room for mid or lower back. I'd like to get the bow as low as possible. I didn't have any issue coming in contact with the arrows. It was most natural for me to put the bow into the quiver in this position, string up. 

    Photo References

    Alibow Tartar, stock photo of my horsebow

    My Tartar bow and carbon arrows

    Sam, my horse in dressage and hunter cob sized bridles

    Herm Sprenger KK Ultra Sensogan Loose Ring, bit to be used, as pictured in dressage bridle


    1. Replies
      1. Thanks! Though I'm not sure I'm back :D
        Mostly just stealing my blog for this project...but you never know!

    2. Hi Jen,
      You're a total star and a dream customer :-). This is a great idea and one which I would never think of, being a techno dullard :-).
      Re the bridle - I'm so glad you are happy to use Chicago screws. I love them for saving space and streamlining but a lot of people don't like them. We mentioned in the previous message thread about using black ones on the reins so I'm wondering if you would like black screws throughout or silver ones throughout? The pictured bridle has silver ones on the head piece which will look great with the silver detailing on yours but I'm not sure about changing from silver to black for the reins. It might look a bit strange?
      I'm also wondering if you are familiar with conway buckles? I was thinking of using one for the poll adjustment but would you be happy with that? They are good things for allowing equal adjustment from both sides but they are a bit fiddly. That probably doesn't matter if once you have the bridle adjusted for Sam you may not need to readjust it often. I like to make a soft leather sleeve to slide over the buckle once the adjustment is done so that you don't see it and it doesn't keep catching mane in it.
      I think those are the only issues for the bridle, otherwise all good. The measurements are great, thank you :-).
      Re bow quiver. Love this compact little design :-). With the three-way adjustable harness, you should be able to comfortably position the quiver to clear saddle, horse, arrows etc by shortening the left hand side strap to pull the bow over to your left side. I make the right hand strap longer than the left hand one to allow this. It will probably just be a matter of fiddling with the straps until you find the comfortable position for the bow and then you'll be set up.
      It looks to me like the design of the quiver in the pic is a simple fold over of leather with lacing down the back. I'm happy to go with that design or alternatively, I was thinking of sewing a "spine" of leather down the bow edge and a small spacer for the string edge. This means the quiver is a bit more rigid and gives the bow a bit more protection. It should also allow the bow to slide in and out freely and easily. I hope that makes sense. For this design I would also need the width of the bow arms to know how wide to make the leather spine. To make that clearer (I hope), the pictured bow quiver is a soft sleeve that takes its shape from the bow being in it. With a sewn in spine, the quiver is a very narrow, quite rigid box that holds its own shape.
      That's a great diagram with the heights and lengths marked on it but I can't work out how to get at the actual measurements themselves :-). I'm nothing if not slow ha ha ha.
      Lastly, Sam. What a little cutie he is!!! :-). A curly bashkir cross ?!?!?! A crushed-velvet pony is too much :-). We don't have curly bashkirs here in Australia, or if we do, there aren't many and I've never seen one. Very disappointing. There are a lot of breeds in the US that haven't made it here and even the more familiar ones like Saddlebreds and Tennessee Walking Horses are still very rare. Lots of quarter horses, paints and appaloosas but they seem to be the only US saddle breeds that have really taken off here. How crazy is that?!?!
      Anyway, back to work :-).

    3. Let's stay silver for all hardware. After some thought, I agree, black chicago screws would look odd by themselves.

      I do know about conway buckles. I find them bulky and am fine with just a regular buckle and like 2-3 holes. I'd only be adjusting for a different bit, which at this point, don't plan on ever changing anyway. But you do what you think will work best. Sam has a hogged mane (1/2 of it doesn't grow most of the time) and I would be binding his forelock in an undetermined fashion so no worries of it getting caught in a poll buckle.

      I'm fine with any design you think will be best for the Quiver. I just like how this one is a simple slide in sleeve with nothing else to worry about. I would think easy to get in and out. Up to you how you want to build it.

      I still owe you the actual measurements of the bow, the image provided is the measurements that I will be taking - it's just for my reference, so no worries that you couldn't figure it out :D

      Bashkirs aren't that popular and have come from our mustangs here with the curly gene dominant.

    4. Thanks Jen, conway buckles are definitely a bit touch and go. I'll use a normal one :-).
      As soon as I sent the last message, I found the notice that said the bow measurements were coming :-/. Wake up Australia, as they say here.
      I think I would feel better making the bow quiver in the more rigid version so if you're happy to go that way, that's great. So the width of the bow arms in the measurements too please :-).
      I love the style of the pictured one though, so simple!!. I don't like the big ones that enclose the whole end of the bow, too much hardware I think :-).
      I love your bow, what a beauty. I just had a look at Alibows and would quite like one of their Turks. One day :-).
      All good for everything else.
      Mary Anne